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You can learn a lot about the health of your pet from his or her urine. This smelly yellow liquid provides a variety of clues that can help your veterinarian solve the mystery of your pet's health.

Like people, pets should have yellow urine that has a characteristic odor. Most pets develop a pattern and urinate with the same frequency each day.

Changes in frequency of urination, blood in the urine and pain during urination are common signs of infection and/or irritation. Most pet owners are very good at noticing these signs.

Your pet's urine can be collected at home or in the veterinary hospital. The 'free catch' method for collecting urine can be done at home. When walking your dog, slip a plastic bowl or container under his leg when he stops to urinate. To speed up the process, you can feed your dog several ice cubes before leaving for the walk. Free catch does not require intensive labor, money, or time, nor does it upset your pet. There are some disadvantages to the free catch method. The free catch method does not provide sterile urine and may be contaminated by bacteria from the environment. If the urine is not transported immediately to the hospital, some of the tests may yield inaccurate results.

Urine Collection Vial

Your veterinarian or a veterinary technician can obtain a fresh urine sample from your pet by catheterizing the bladder. This collection procedure requires the animal's cooperation and often requires sedation.

Once the urine is obtained, the first thing examined is the sediment. Sediment refers to the cells floating in the urine. An increased number of white blood cells signals inflammation and helps with the diagnosis of a bladder infection. With bladder infections, large numbers of bacteria may also be present.

Urine Sediment of a Dog.
White Blood Cells and Bacteria are Shown

Due to the long length of the urethra, female dogs are more prone to urinary tract infections than male dogs. Diabetic animals have an increased amount of glucose in the urine, which may promote bacterial growth and cause infection.

Animals can form bladder stones due to a genetic condition, if urine flow is decreased or if the bladder wall is irritated. Stones can sometimes be seen on x-rays and they can often be located during ultrasound examination. Surgery is usually required to remove large bladder stones.

X-Ray Showing 2 Bladder Stones

Examination of the urine is also important for diagnosing kidney disease. The specific gravity (of the urine) compares the weight of urine to the weight of water, detecting functional problems with the kidneys. The specific gravity indicates how well the animal is concentrating its urine. If the specific gravity is low (approaching that of water), the kidneys may not be eliminating the body's waste products properly into the urine. Instead of eliminating the waste products into the urine, they accumulate in the blood stream and cause problems.

Various minerals can solidify in urine to form casts and crystals. The presence of calcium oxalate crystals, for example, can be found as a result of ethylene glycol (antifreeze) toxicity. Ammonium biurate crystals are red flags for liver disease. The most commonly found crystals are triple phosphate (magnesium ammonium phosphate) and can signify a bladder infection.

Various Urinary crystals (A) Calcium Oxalate Crystals (B) Uric Acid Crystals
(C) Triple Phosphate Crystals with Amorphous Phosphates (D) Cystine Crystals

The kidney is composed of a series of tubules that aid in making urine. Substances are either absorbed back into the body or excreted in the tubules as urine. If casts are found in the urine, this may indicate a problem with the tubules in the kidney. Casts are solid clumps of protein cells or red and white blood cells. These cells collect in the tubules and are shed sporadically. These casts have a tube-like shape and can be seen under a microscope.

Large Granular Urinary Cast

Red Cell Granular Cast and Numerous Erythrocytes.
Early Stages of Acute Kidney Disease

Urine is so much more than a waste product. Your pet's urine test means a lot for his or her health. It provides many interesting diagnostic clues that help determine what's going on inside your pet!

The idea of "training" your cat may either amuse or frighten you, but don't worry - it is possible. According to experts, it isn't that tough to teach your cat to accept a carrier, and once you do, you'll find lots of practical reasons for containing your kitty.

Some key pieces of advice for acclimating any cat to a carrier are to give your cat plenty of time to adjust and to put cat treats, tasty food or favorite toys inside the carrier in order to entice him.

The biggest benefit of crate training is safety. You'll know where your cat is and he can still be part of your activities. No more "'fraidy cats" getting loose when workmen come to your house. No more hissing fits that annoy or frighten your visitors. No more contortionist cats crammed under the seat of your car.

More and more people are traveling with their cats, and for them, carriers are travel necessities. Loose cats can distract a driver, fall out of windows, get injured by loose objects or get wedged under the accelerator or dashboard. Also, many motels allow pets only when they are crated.

Crating the cat is important even for just a short trip around the block. Obviously, a good many cats and people are injured in auto accidents because their cats aren't restrained. Also, rescue workers may be clawed or bitten by loose cats in car accidents.

Another benefit of crate training is acceptance of a cage if the kitty must be boarded, hospitalized or shipped.

Crates are also useful for training cats that misbehave when separated form their owners. A carrier not only keeps these cats from getting into trouble, but also often serves as a safe haven - a cozy, contained space where the cat has privacy and a place of his own. Of course, a crate at home must be used humanely and not abused. No pet should be left alone in a crate for more than a couple of hours.

Many cats find crates stressful at first. That fear can usually be overcome with patience and treats. You don't have to face the grueling training task unprepared. Many pet shops offer pamphlets on crate training; some even have training videos. At the very least, when you're buying a cat carrier, ask for the manufacturer's sales sheet describing the crate's features. It usually explains what size carrier to buy, various uses and the basics of crate training.

Here are some basic steps for crate training your cat:

Place the carrier (with its door open) in a room where he can explore the crate on his own. Put food and toys inside to draw his attention. Leave the crate alone for several days

After the cat adjusts to the open crate, you can lock him inside. Entice him to enter the carrier with food or treats, and then latch the door. The first time the cat enters the crate, he should not be locked inside for longer than 10 minutes. Gradually increase the amount of time he is locked inside. Do not let the cat out if he cries or hisses; that only reinforces bad behavior.

Put favorite toys or soft bedding (particularly an old towel, blanket or sweater that carries the owner's scent) inside the crate in order to help make him feel more secure. In larger crates, you can even put a litter box and water bowl. When kitty settles down, re-open the door to the carrier so he can come and go at will. Once your cat accepts the carrier, the next step is to get him used to movement. The crate should be picked up and carried around carefully. Talk soothingly and give treats.

Slowly acclimate kitty to traveling in your car. At first, just sit in the car with him, and then take him on short errands. Each time you put your crated kitty in the car, increase your travel time. Make the experienceas pleasant as possible - using toys and treats. Don't limit your car trips to visits to the veterinarian's office and boarding kennel.

Admittedly, for some cats, slow training doesn't work. A quick method of getting a cat into a carrier is as follows: Sit the carrier up-ended so its open door is at the top. Hold the cat firmly by the scruff of the neck and gently lower him into the crate. Be sure to support the cat's rump with your hand.

In addition, not every cat needs to travel in a carrier. For a trip to the vet, for example, an especially aggressive cat may do better enclosed in a pillowcase or cloth laundry bag. A docile cat may be content in a wrapped soft towel on the passenger's lap. Owners must evaluate their cat's individual personality and do what they think is best.

Cat carriers (pet carriers) come in all sizes, designs, materials and prices. Pet stores, veterinary hospitals, catalog companies and online outfits offer large choices. Cardboard carriers are not recommended, as most cats can find ways to slip out and escape.

Dogs dig digging. For some dogs, it seems to be a natural instinct. Dogs dig holes in order to bury objects. Dogs like to bury objects and return to them at a later date. Some dogs bury anything and everything. In the summertime, the holes that they dig are cool and make comfortable sleeping quarters.

There are several methods that exist for controlling this behavior. We have listed only two. The first method is to redirect the behavior. In this situation, the dog learns to dig someplace else. The second method involves the use of a special collar. This type of collar has a refillable reservoir that contains eucalyptus. When the dog barks, the eucalyptus is sprayed in his (or her) direction. The collar method is used as a deterrent and can help eliminate the digging behavior.

Redirecting the behavior

If your yard is a mess and you would like your dog to dig in only one place, a reinforcement technique may work. This may take some time and requires that you follow your dog every time he goes outdoors.

Take your dog to a remote area in your yard. Bury one of his favorite toys in that area (or bury something that you know he would enjoy burying). Allow him to dig up the object. After he digs up the object, give him a reward (food or praise - we prefer praise!). If he begins to dig anywhere else, you must reprimand him. Scolding, a pull on the collar, or a small spray from a eucalyptus collar will usually suffice. You must be persistent and vary the rewards or your dog will easily forget.

Extinguishing the Behavior

This technique also involves constant supervision of your dog. You must watch him at all times and intervene as soon as you see any indication of digging activity. You can try screaming at your dog; however, a eucalyptus collar is almost indispensable. A small spray of eucalyptus from the collar goes much further when trying to correct this behavior.

The advantage of the eucalyptus collar is that the correction is not coming from you. Screaming at your dog or reprimanding him only makes him afraid of you. By using the collar, the dog thinks that the correction comes as a result of his action.

Good luck!

The term tortoiseshell cat refers to a coloration pattern caused by a specific genetic trait. It is not a specific breed of cat.

The coats of tortoiseshell cats are a mixture of colors. Tortoiseshell coats combine black, white, red or ginger, and occasionally silver or ginger tabby patterns. The size of the patches can vary from a fine speckled pattern to large areas of color. Cats with a basic white colour and red and black patches are known as tortoiseshell-and-white or more commonly, calico cats.

The tortoiseshell coloration is a sex-linked trait. Sex-linked genes are those carried on the mammalian X chromosome, but not the Y chromosome. In cats, the gene controlling the red color is carried on an X chromosome. The gene controlling black and other 'non-red' colors is also carried on an X chromosome. So, a tortoiseshell is formed when you combine two X chromosomes, one containing the red colors and the other containing the non-red colors.

Because two X chromosomes are necessary for this particular pattern of coloration, over 99 percent of tortoiseshell cats are females. In order for a male to be a tortoiseshell, he would need to have two X chromosomes. This condition is called Klinefelter's syndrome, and these males are almost always sterile.

Most people are embarrassed by the fact that their dog eats his or her own poop. Since this behavior is not often discussed, most people don't realize that it is a common dog behavior.

After puppies are born, the mother dogs keep them clean by licking them and eating their feces. If the mothers did not have this instinct, the puppies would get very dirty and the feces would accumulate. If too many puppies were produced in a litter and the mother was not able to keep up with her obligations, another adult dog in the family would very often take over some of the motherly responsibilities. Cats also perform these same tasks for their kittens.

Mother and Her Puppies

Eating feces is not at an unusual behavior for dogs. Within a few weeks, the puppies begin eating solid food and can walk well enough to get out of the nest. At this time, the mother can stop her cleaning responsibilities as the puppies start pooping elsewhere. This habit, however, can persist in her, and this same instinct most likely exists in most dogs (male and female), ready to be triggered by various life situations.

Why a Dog Eats Feces

Sometimes we don't know why a particular dog starts eating poop, but certain conditions can trigger the behavior. Since some of these indicate a dog that needs help, you'll want to consider them as possibilities for what is going on with your dog.

1. If a dog is not getting enough to eat or is going too long between meals, he may begin to eat his own feces. If you are having trouble figuring out a feeding schedule or the amount to feed your dog, it's probably best to discuss this with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can help you evaluate the dog's weight and can suggest a feeding schedule and amount. Sometimes it takes experimentation to see what works best for a particular dog.

2. Your dog may have a physical problem that causes excessive hunger, pain or another sensation that may resort to eating feces. If your adult dog suddenly starts eating his or her own feces, take your dog to your veterinarian for a check-up.

3. A dog with intestinal parasites or another condition that changes the consistency of his feces may resort to eating them. If another dog has a similar condition, your dog may decide to eat the other dog's feces. When you take your dog to the veterinarian, bring a fresh fecal sample for evaluation.

4. Whatever the cause of the problem might be, a change of diet sometimes helps. There are so many dog foods from which to choose, and food that works well for one dog may not be right for another. When changing from one food to another, you need to make the change gradually. Start by mixing a small amount of the new food with the old. Over a period of two weeks, increase the amount of new food and decrease the quantity of the old dog food. At the end of this time, you should be feeding your dog only the new food. Gradually switching foods gives the dog's intestines time to adjust and avoid diarrhea resulting from the change.

5. If you are punishing your dog during housetraining or punishing him for defecating in the house, he may react be eating his own feces. This is one of many reasons not to use punishment during housetraining or after a dog defecates in the house. Some dogs develop a mental connection that they will be punished if their humans find them in the same room with feces.

6. Boredom can cause dogs to do all sorts of things. If your dog is not socializing enough or you are not exercising him sufficiently, he may end up eating his own feces. If you are leaving your dog alone for long periods of time, you may want to purchase some toys in order to keep him amused. Toys that have treats inside them (for the dog to get out) can help with lots of boredom-based problems.

Miracle Cures That Usually Don't Work

Eating feces is not healthy for your dog. The first thing you need to do to help overcome this problem is to keep your dog's area clean of feces. Housetraining and supervising the dog whenever he is in the designated relief area is required.

Until a dog is fully housetrained and the feces-eating habit has died out, picking up after each bowel movement is important. After your dog develops proper habits, you may be able to pick up just once a day if you have a private place for the dog to use.

Some people swear that mixing food additives or meat tenderizers in a dog's food can cure the habit. Their theory is that the additive provides a nutrient that the dog is craving. Another theory is that the additive makes the feces taste bad.

Before you try adding any of these substances to your dog's food, consult your veterinarian. Some additives may not be safe for your particular dog. Also, don't expect any additive to be a miracle cure. These things tend to work for the occasional dog, but chances are pretty slim that they will work for your dog.

Behavior Training - The Cure

If a medical or nutritional problem is not found, your dog may need behavior modification. Behavior modification takes time and you shouldn't expect to cure the problem after just a few sessions.

Each time your dog goes out to potty, you need to have him by your side, attached to a collar and leash. If your dog is large and you cannot control him well, he needs to be fitted with some type of head halter.

Each time you take your dog out, he needs to be on the leash and collar. As soon as his poop hits the ground and he shows interest in it, call the dog to you. Don't use the leash to jerk the dog, but simply to keep him from being able to reach the feces. Keep the treats that you have out of his sight.

Reward and Praise Your Dog

The instant the dog reaches you, praise him, whip out a treat that he likes and give it to him. Back away from the dog, praise him and give him another treat for coming to you. Repeat this process for a total of three to five times. At this point, you will have taken the dog's mind off the feces.

When you first begin, put the dog inside while cleaning up the feces. Once you have good control and a good rapport with your dog, you can go ahead and clean up while the dog is still outside. As you repeat this process of rewarding him with a treat, you can increase the length of the leash. Eventually you can replace the leash with a long line and give him the reward at your back door. Once you feel that your dog is responding well, remove the line and reward him when he comes to the door. Keep up the same energy and level of the reward if you want your dog to keep responding.

Solving Behavior Problems

As with any behavior problem, it is best to begin intervention as soon as you notice the problem. The less time that the habit has persisted, the less time you need for correction and the more easily the problem fades.

If a friend or a family member's dog has a behavior problem, let them know that punishment cannot solve it. Punishment is detrimental to the dog's trust in people and to the family's relationship with their pet.

There is almost nothing more comforting than when a cat jumps on our lap and begins to purr. Ever since the Egyptians started worshiping the cat, philosophers, scientists and cat lovers worldwide have wondered why cats purr. When we hear and feel this purring, we assume that everything is just fine with the cat. But why do cats purr? And what produces this sound?

Purring is a mystery. No one can definitively say which mechanism in a cat creates the purr. Some feline experts believe purring is due to a vibrations caused by blood passing through a large vein in the cat's chest. Yet others who have studied purring think it's due to the vibration of the vocal cords when the animal inhales and exhales.

It appears as though purring is not just limited to domestic cats. Some wild cats, such as pumas and mountain lions, are able to purr. In general, most large cats that cannot roar are able to purr. The calls of the leopard vary and include a series of harsh coughs, throaty growls, and deep, purring sounds.

It turns out that cats have special wiring traveling from the brain to the muscles in the vocal cords. Nerve signals that pass through this wiring system cause vibrations of the vocal cords. While the nerves cause the vocal cords to vibrate, the air forced through them by the diaphragm causes the musical hum. Since breathing has both inspiratory and expiratory phases, cats can purr continuously. The problem with this theory, however, is that cats continue to purr even when the nerves to the area of the vocal cords have been injured or damaged.

It is commonly believed that cats purr when content. However, cats also purr when they are severely injured, frightened or giving birth. According to some veterinarians, the original function of the purr was to enable a kitten to communicate with his mother that things are going well. A kitten is able to purr by the second day of life, and although he can't meow and nurse at the same time, he can purr and nurse.

As the cat matures, the meaning of the purr changes. Some cats purr to indicate contentment or pleasure, but badly frightened cats and severely ill cats also purr. It is not uncommon for cats to purr when they are close to death. This final purring may indicate a state of anxiety or possibly euphoria. These states have also been elucidated in terminally ill people.

Since the purr has lasted through hundreds of generations of cats, there must be a survival mechanism behind its continued existence. Researchers believe that self-healing is the survival mechanism behind the purr. There is extensive documentation that suggests that low frequencies, at low intensity, are therapeutic. These frequencies can aid bone growth, fracture healing, pain relief, tendon and muscle strength and repair, joint mobility, the reduction of swelling, and the relief of dyspnea, or breathlessness.

Animal behaviorists believe that when cats purr under stressful circumstances, they are reassuring or comforting themselves, much as humans may sing to themselves or hum when they are nervous. Frightened cats may purr to communicate submissiveness or non-aggressive intentions. A feral cat may purr to signal that he is not planning to attack and other cats need not feel threatened. Older cats may purr when they play or approach other cats, signaling that they are friendly and want to come closer.

Pet owners and their canine companions aren't the only ones who look forward to the warm weather. As summer approaches, pet owners must once again be on guard against fleas, the prolific parasites that can keep dogs and humans alike scratching for months on end. In the northern United States, fleas are prevalent during the warm summer months, though the pesky parasites cause trouble year-round for pet owners in the south.

Keeping fleas off your pet and out of your home is about more than just stopping your pet's constant scratching. Aside from itchy, irritating bites, fleas can cause the skin disease flea allergy dermatitis in both cats and dogs, as well as miliary dermatitis in cats. Fleas can also transmit Dipylidium caninum, or double-pore tapeworm, a common tapeworm found in dogs and cats, as well as a number of other diseases.

Even if fleas aren't on your pet right now, they may be living in your home. There are four stages in a flea's life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. It is only during the adult stage that the flea actually lives on an animal; during the other three stages, the flea lives in the surround environment. Immature fleas usually account for about 90 to 95 percent of the total flea population in a home. A good rule of thumb is that for every flea you find on your pet, there are about 100 more immature fleas living in the surrounding environment.

The average flea can live for anywhere between 12 days and 180 days, though the typical lifespan of a flea lasts three to six weeks. But even in that short amount of time, an adult female can lay more than 1,000 eggs, which means that even only one flea can result in big problems.

How can you tell if fleas have invaded your home and latched on to your dog? Scratching is the first sign. During feeding, fleas inject saliva into the skin of the animal; this saliva contains proteins that cause allergic skin reactions, which leads to bouts of rubbing and scratching. Fleas are most commonly found on dogs around the base of the tail and on the belly. If you suspect your dog has fleas but cannot see them, check for "flea dirt." This is the excrement of the flea and consists of a mix of feces and dried blood. To find flea dirt, have your pet lay on the ground and place a piece of white paper underneath him or her. Brush your pet and let the paper collect any dirt or debris. Next, add a few drops of water to the dirt on the paper; if dried blood is present, the water will take on a reddish color, indicating the presence of flea dirt.

If you are experiencing a heavy infestation of fleas, treating your pet may not be enough. Home and yard treatments are also available to keep fleas at bay. Effective flea control measures include vacuuming several times each week and washing your pet's bedding once a week. For particularly bad infestations, try using a insect spray or fogger a few times. Outside your home, sprays can be used to hit fleas where they live. Fleas thrive in moist, shady areas, such as under bushes, mulch, porches and crawl spaces. Target these areas to reduce flea populations.

During the last several years, significant improvements have been made to flea control products. Oral and topical medications containing insect growth regulators (IGR) and insect development inhibitors (IDI) disrupt the flea's maturation process and stop infestations before they begin. These treatments are less toxic for pets and the environment and more effective in controlling fleas.

Topical treatments are more effective than past products because they remain on the surface of the pet's skin, where they are toxic only to fleas, rather than absorbed into the pet's bloodstream. Below is a list of common flea control products available through your veterinarian. Flea control products designed for dogs should not be used on cats and could result in serious illness or death. If you have multiple dogs, keep the dogs separated for an hour or two after applying each treatment in order to avoid oral ingestion.

Advantage: Developed by Bayer, Advantage is a topical solution containing the active ingredient imidacloprid, which acts on the nervous system of the flea. Advantage stops biting fleas within three to five minutes of initial application and kills adult fleas within an hour. Advantage also kills flea larvae within 20 minutes of contact. Advantage should be applied monthly and is available only through your veterinarian.

Advantage Multi: This topical solution combines imidacloprid, the same flea-killing ingredient found in Advantage, with moxidectin, which prevents heartworm disease and treats and controls intestinal worms such as hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. Advantage Multi should be applied monthly in order to best control fleas and parasites and is available by prescription only.

Comfortis: Developed by Lilly, Comfortis is a chewable, beef-flavored tablet that can prevent flea infestations in dogs for one month. The active ingredient is spinosad, a member of a class of antiparasitics called spinosysn. Spinosads are low-toxicity pesticides that are effective at eliminating pests while maintaining a low environmental risk. Comfortis is available by prescription only.

Frontline Top Spot: A topical solution similar to the Frontline Spray developed by Merial in 1996, Frontline Top Spot provides protection from both fleas and ticks. The active ingredient is fipronil, which kills adult fleas on dogs. Frontline should be applied monthly and remains waterproof for 30 days.

Frontline Plus: This flea control product is similar to Frontline Top Spot but also contains methoprene, which disrupts the flea's maturation process by killing eggs and larvae. Like Frontline Top Spot, Frontline Plus provides protection from fleas and ticks for 30 days.

K9 Advantix: This product uses the active ingredients imidacloprid and permethrin to repel and kill fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. Imidacloprid kills adult fleas within three to five minutes and also kills flea larvae, while permethrin repels and kills ticks and mosquitoes. Developed by Bayer, K9 Advantix is available through your veterinarian and should be used monthly.

ProMeris: Developed by Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), ProMeris uses the active ingredients metaflumizone and amitraz to kill and repel flea and tick infestations. Metaflumizone causes neuron disruptions in fleas, resulting in loss of coordination, paralysis and death. Amitraz is a tick repellant previously only available on collars or dips. ProMeris is available by prescription and should be used monthly for best results.

Revolution: Developed by Pfizer, Revolution prevents, kills and controls a number of parasites, including fleas, ear mites and the American dog tick. Revolution is also effective in preventing heartworm disease and treating sarcoptic mange. Revolution contains selamectin. When applied, the drug enters the bloodstream through the skin; concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissue prevent heartworm disease, while concentrations in the skin protects against fleas and flea eggs.

Vectra 3D: A topical treatment developed by Summit VetPharm, Vectra 3D kills 96% of fleas in 6 hours and repels fleas, ticks and mosquitoes for at least one month. It contains the active ingredients dinotefuran and permethrin, pesticides specifically used to help kill fleas on adult dogs. Vectra 3D is available by prescription only.